Jean-Marc Desprès - Domaine de la Madone, Fleurie

                   

One of the very best Beaujolais estates, Domaine de la Madone is perfectly situated in the hills surrounding the 1866 Chapel of the Madonna which dominates the Fleurie skyline. The chapel sits high on the hill  dominating the village of Fleurie (and, indeed the whole of the region - it is visible from all 10 of the Beaujolais Crus). Standing on top of the chapel is the statue of La Dame de la Pétoche. Local legend tells when the Prussian invasion of France of 1970 was halted nearby, it was La Dame who 'put the wind up them' (pétoche). 

The best wines of Fleurie are thought to come from the granite hillside surrounding the chapel and it is on the southwest facing slopes that Jean-Marc Desprès cultivates his vines. Jean-Marc produces three excellent cuvées: "Tradition" is a classic Fleurie with a feminine, floral bouquet and silky smooth fruit and firm structure. "Vieilles Vignes" is an older-vine cuvée, richer and more ageworthy. Best of all is the Burgundy-like "Grille Midi", another old-vine cuvée which demands more time to develop its Pinot-like characteristics.

2002 was an excellent year throughout Beaujolais producing classic, rich wines suitable (where appropriate) for ageing. 2003 was an extraordinary vintage due to the heatwave of that year. Wines are immensely rich for Gamay but are unlikely to go the distance. 2004 was a welcome return to a more classic style.