Giovanni Manzone: Barolo 2008/2009

On the face of it, if points awarded by critics are to be believed, 2009 is a better vintage than 2008. Certainly the scores for Manzone's 2008 and 2009 Barolos suggest this. However, things are never that simple. 2008 was difficult at first but saved by an Indian summer. There is more elegance to the structure of the wines which will need longer in the bottle. 2009, on the other hand, is flashier and fleshier with higher alcohol levels. The wines will mature faster than the 2008s so it may be that the 2008s will prove better in the long run. In many ways, the two vintages are a re-run of 2006 and 2007 (this is overly simplistic, of course) with both having something to offer wine drinkers who like the Manzone style.

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Barolo 2008 Bricat (£135/6 IB)

The 2008 Barolo Bricat is the richest and most powerful of the three Baroli I tasted from Manzone. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the Bricat possesses lovely vibrancy and more than enough mid-palate sweetness to fill out its frame. Sweet roses, mint and freshly cut flowers add an element of lift and freshness on the finish. Although attractive today, the 2008 Bricat could use another year or two for the tannins to soften a bit more. 2014-2022. 91/100 (Antonio Galloni/Wine Advocate, October 2012)

Due Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2013)

Barolo 2009 Bricat (£135/6 IB)

The 2009 Barolo Bricat is a bit brighter and more focused than the 2009 Gramolere. Here the aromas and flavors are precise, chiseled and beautifully articulated. White flowers, berries, mint and slate are some of the many notes that flow through to a long, precise finish supported by lovely tannic grip. This is another gorgeous Barolo from Manzone. 2016-2029. 93/100 (Antonio Galloni, October 2012)

91/100 (Wine Spectator)

Due Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2014)

Barolo 2008 Gramolere (£129/6 IB)

Manzone's 2008 Barolo Gramolere is a touch more delicate than the Castelleto. Sweet red cherries, flowers, mint and licorice waft from the glass as this feminine, gracious wine takes shape. The Gramolere is another excellent, tasty Barolo that should drink well right out of the gate. 2013-2018. 89/100 (Antonio Galloni/Wine Advocate, October 2012)

Shows power and harmony though the components should take a few years to integrate fully. The cherry, strawberry and tobacco and underbrush flavours align with the silky texture while firm tannins provide support. Fine length. Best 2015-2030. 91/100 (Wine Spectator)

Due Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2013)

Barolo 2009 Gramolere (£129/6 IB)

Manzone's 2009 Barolo Gramolere shows the immediacy of the vintage. Plum, cherry, spice and leather notes all take shape in the glass. The 2009 boasts lovely density and mid-palate sweetness, but the aromas and flavors are just a bit forward, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. 2013-2021. 90/100 (Antonio Galloni, October 2012)

93/100 (Wine Spectator) - 8th in the tasting with all other wines in the top 15 costing well in excess of twice as much (except Bricat in 13th place).

Due Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2014)

Barolo 2008 Castelletto (£123/6 IB)

Manzone's 2008 Barolo Castelletto is a pretty, juicy wine laced with sweet red cherries, flowers, tobacco, anise and mint, all of which come together nicely. This is a decidedly feminine, gracious Barolo for the year, also influenced by the relatively high altitude of these vineyards. Firm yet well-integrated tannins add grip on the finish. 2013-2020. 90/100 (Antonio Galloni/Wine Advocate, October 2012)

Elegant, this red is full of spice, currant, balsamic and soy aromas and flavours. The texture is supple and the structure well-integrated, offering firm support and lingering, energetic finish of mineral and spice. Best 2016-2032. 94/100 (Wine Spectator) - 5th in the tasting with all other wines in the top 15 costing well in excess of twice as much.

Due Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2013)

Barolo 2009 Castelletto (£123/6 IB)

A gorgeous ruby, Manzone's 2009 Barolo Castelletto is terrific in this vintage. Rose petals, raspberries, spices, mint and licorice all wrap around the palate in a seductive, utterly delicious Barolo loaded with class and personality. Absolutely nothing is out of place in this joyous, beautifully expressive Barolo. The style is a bit light in body for Castelletto, but the wine's balance is impeccable. The 2009 drinks well early but its color and overall freshness suggest it will also age gracefully for a number of years. 2014-2029. 93/100 (Antonio Galloni, October 2012)

Tre Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso 2014)

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