Domaine Raymond Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

"Of the three Usseglios, Raymond produces the richest and fullest wines... a juicy, plump, chewy style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that can drink well for a decade." (Robert M. Parker, Wines of the Rhône Valley, Dorling Kindersley) 

Raymond Usseglio's father, Francis, came from Piemonte in Northern Italy in 1931 and in 1948, after several years working for other growers, acquired 8 hectares which eventually passed to his eldest son, Pierre. Raymond had to build his own estate which he began in 1964. There are now 16 ha in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a further 5ha in the Côtes du Rhône appellation spread over more than 30 parcels.

Raymond's son, Stéphane, produces rich, full, ageworthy Châteauneuf from vines over 50 years old. They tend to be jammy and juicy with a good amount of fat to cuddle up to yet more elegant than the wines from Raymond's brother Pierre Usseglio, for example.

In addition to the excellent red Châteauneuf, the family also produces a limited production "Cuvée Impériale" from vines planted in 1902 at La Crau, one of the most renowned lieu dits in the appellation, particularly highly regarded for Grenache. There is also a small quantity of improving white wine which is an ideal match for seafood.

The 1998 from this estate sold out very quickly after an excellent Parker rating and then winning "Coup de Coeur" in the 2001 Guide Hachette. Subsequent vintages have been very much in the same style, perhaps better... sadly all sold now! The Usseglio's 2002 was the only wines we tasted (and we tasted a lot) from that vintage that merited buying. It is a lighter wine than usual but still very good. 2003 - the heatwave year - produced some of the biggest wines yet. Nonetheless, Stéphane manages to keep the wines well-balanced and even the intense old-vine "Impériale" is not overblown or too concentrated, unlike some of the prestige wines now being produced in the village. Elegance combined with concentration is, in our, view, a remarkable achievement and the mark of a truly fine wine.

Note: these are the same wines as those Parker refers to as "Cuvée Girard Non Filtré" which is simply a different label requested by the American importer.

The superb 2006 is currently available en primeur, due for shipment in Autumn 2008.

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