Domaine de Vallouit, Côte Rôtie

Until the mid-nineties, the Côte Rôtie wines of Louis de Vallouit (the estate built up by the former racing driver) were rather hit-and-miss. However, amid rumours that the giant firm of Guigal was going to buy the estate, investment was made and the quality of the wines has been improving with every vintage. "La Vonière" is the top wine from this now great producer. It uses 20% Viognier (the maximum amount permitted by the appellation rules) to give elegance to the sheer power of the Syrah. It is a truly phenomenal wine.

1999 was a formidable year for Côte Rôtie (and the Northern Rhône generally). As such, the better wines do need time in the bottle to be appreciated at their best.