Domaine Berthoumieu (Didier Barré) Madiran

Domaine Berthoumieu is located in the heartland of the fourth musketeer, d’Artagnan, real name “Charles de Batz”, Didier Barré's top cuvée which in 2006 was a superb example of modern Madiran. 

Didier has continued the family tradition by taking the 26 hectare estate, Domaine Berthoumieu, to the top of the Madiran appellation using Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Pinenc. For white wines (15% of total annual production of 160,000 bottles), Didier makes some of the best Pacherenc du Vic Bihl using Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu. Around 15,000 cases are made each year.

The vineyard is managed in a “reasoned” way: Didier has applied the Tonyx method for more than a decade, using natural trace elements to strengthen the vine's protective defences thereby making it more resistant to diseases. Other treatments can then be limited.

Qualitative management is ensured through various practices undertaken in the vineyard such as thinning out the leaves to get the best maturation possible and green harvesting to limit yields.

Unlike many other Madiran winemakers, Didier does not use micro-oxygenation to tame the tannins; instead he racks intensively and uses new oak to add sweetness to the burly wine. As such, they are even more approachable in their youth but age impressively too.

Elsewhere, Didier makes Pacherenc de Vic-Bilh: a crisp, fresh, grapefruit-scented white and sweet, rich, aromatic Doux, "Symphonie d'Automne". In addition to the Berthoumieu range, Didier also makes a very good, accesible Madiran under the Domaine Lacassagne label.