Domaine Grand Veneur (Alain Jaume), Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Alain Jaume, with his sons Stéphane and Christophe, is raising the game at this already well-run estate near to Orange. The estate is currently in conversion to organic status.

The Grand Veneur range comprises an extremely good red and decent white Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as exquisite luxury cuvées in both colours. The Jaumes destem all the red grapes to avoid rusticity. As new techniques have been employed (or, perhaps, old techniques, as they include not filtering the wine) improvements have been quite noticeable. The white wines have improved too with a greater understanding of the use of oak.

"Les Origines" in red is a benchmark for the modernist approach with tell-tale new oak supporting the fruit and the white "La Fontaine" is a delicious old-vine Roussanne which also sees a little oak. Unusually for white Châteauneuf-du-Pape (but not for those made with Roussanne) this can improve well over several years. It gives Beaucastel's "Vieilles Vignes Roussanne" a run for its money (at about a third of the price).

To the west, the Jaumes make one of the most striking wines from Lirac, called "Clos des Sixte".

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