Domaine Brusset, Gigondas & Cairanne

"Les Hauts de Montmirail" is one of the most concentrated, magical wines of the appellation (Robert Parker, Wines of the Rhône Valley , Dorling Kindersley)

Andre Brusset founded this estate in 1947 since when it has grown into one of the largest landowners in Cairanne and Gigondas with some important holdings in both appellations. Following his death in 1999, his son Daniel and grandson Laurent have created a special cuvee "Hommage à André Brusset" from their oldest vines planted on the estate's best parcels in Cairanne. It is a remarkable wine.

Daniel Brusset has made the estate world famous, principally for the two Gigondas cuvees, "Le Grand Montmirail" and the oaked "Les Hauts de Montmirail". Both are consistently amongst the finest wines to come out of the appellation each year with "Les Hauts" one of the most powerful wines from this appellation of over the top wines. With a high percentage of new oak used in the upbringing of the wine, it is attractive young but can age effortlessly for a decade or more. Because "Les Hauts" is (as the name suggests) high in the Dentelles de Montmirail, the Brussets were able to make it even in the rain-soaked 2002 vintage. Perhaps a little lighter than usual, it is still an extremely good wine.

The Brussets' wines are always in the top tier from both Gigondas and Cairanne. A personal favourite is the Cairanne cuvée "Vendange Chabrille", named after a lieu dit in the appellation. It is a concentrated Grenache-Syrah blend which generally drinks well young but has a good lifespan too. Otherwise from Cairanne, there is the "Côteaux des Travers" cuvée, also named after a lieu dit which is generally a very attractive and approachable wine. In 2002, this was the only Cairanne produced by the family so all the old vine grapes that would normally be used to make the more prestigious wines found their way into this cuvée, thereby making an extremely acceptable - and enjoyable - bottle.

Note: Don't expect to find reviews from Robert Parker for the Cairanne wines. Daniel Brusset left the syndicate a few years ago (he is set to rejoin) and for some reason, whilst he has enjoyed these wines in the past, Parker only tastes syndicate wines. The "Chabrille" and "Hommage" cuvées would undoubtedly attract very high Parker scores (and notes to match) had they been tasted, as evidenced by the excellent reviews from Wine Spectator, the Guide Hachette and other prestigious (if less influential) publications.